Hydra, As a Museum

Hydra is a picturesque popular Greek island in the Saronic Gulf. Look at the red-tiled houses and stone-paved narrow alleys. This gulf lies between the islands of Poros and Spetses, near the coast of the eastern end of the Peloponnese. Hydra is known as the "museum island" which has remained since the 1800's. Rich villas, artists, writers, and film makers still make their residences in Hydra since the sixties. The island still maintains a highly cosmopolitan character.



Some of the best spring and fall hiking are in Hydra. Hikes range from simple to difficult. At Easter, the island is carpeted with flowers. In September, the weather is temperate. We must hike after Easter or before September, start before dawn, and be back before noon. That is why summer is not the best time to ramble on Hydra. It has a reputation as the hottest of Greek islands. It has very little shade. The curve of the Peloponnese blocks sea winds and the breezes do not help with the scorching summer heat. Wear sunscreen and drink plenty of bottled water. It is worth the hike to The Profitis Ilias Monastery which is perched on the highest hill above the town. Wear walking shoes because of the cobblestones. Drink bottled water only because the wells (pigadia) are low so the tap water is pumped into the tanks at the harbor from the Peloponnese. This water creates thirst. Did you know that most residents maintain a cistern (sterna) under their houses to store delicious rainwater which they drink all summer? We need to be careful, even though we feel safer carrying a mobile phone because there can be spotty service.

Aside from the views from the monastery, every year there is a celebration of the famous fire of then Admiral Miaoulis which ends in the burning of a ship at sea. But, maybe we are interested in art? The yearly summer exhibition is at the Hydra's Melina Mercouri Gallery. We stumbled on the works of Michael Lawrence at the exhibition and found that Michael Lawrence was born at the same hospital as my husband. He is also a native Californian who is a contemporary painter and sculptor and a full-time resident of Hydra. And what a pleasure to see his paintings! It was enjoyable meeting a native Californian who also has a residence in Greece.

How do we get here? We can take a car ferry from Piraeus Harbor. It also leaves daily during the warmer months from Ermioni. The ferry trip is 3.5 hours and the hydrofoil from Ermioni takes approximately 20 minutes. Ermioni is a small quiet harbor located on the eastern part of the Peloponnese that has several cafes and tavernas to visit while waiting for our transportation to the island.

Hotels are approximately 50 Euros or more per night, so reserve early. The Hydroussa Hotel and the Four Seasons is a couple of hotels for 80 plus euros per night. As far as I am concerned, accommodations are important to our enjoyment of a trip. It might be worth the extra money to get luxury.

Did we hike, see the reenactment of the ship burning, see artwork from one of the resident artists? What about a mule ride? Whatever our preference, we enjoyed our stay on the island of Hydra. Let us return again and again!

by Roberta Mark Engel