The Greek Rock of Gibraltar

See the medieval Byzantine and Venetian fortress perched on the three hundred meter high Rock of Gibraltar of Greece. A narrow strip of land links the Laconian coast with the "rock". This reddish-brown boulder is surrounded by the indigo colored sea and enjoys the Mediterranean sun. Benefit from the trek up the steep terrain of the "Greek Rock of Gibraltar" because the views are fabulous. Don't forget to wear your tennis shoes and take a camera. Let's hike!

Did you know that Monemvasia was discovered during the 6th century (around 583) by Byzantine Greeks seeking refuge from the Slavic invaders? For 700 years, it remained under Byzantine rule. Monemvasia began as a seaport in the west of Italy in the middle Ages. In the 12th century, Monemvasia survived attacks by the Arabs and Normans. In 1249, it was taken over by the Frankish crusaders. In 1259, the castle of Monemvasia was given back to the Byzantines. In 1491, the Venetians took control. In 1540, the Turks captured it after a three-year siege. The Venetians re-captured it in 1690, but in 1715, they sold it to their adversaries. Monemvasia was finally liberated by the Greeks on July 23, 1821.

Now, we walk through the corridor leading to the castle entrance (the rock) with its iron gates. Monemvasia means moni emvasi (single entrance). The Kastro (fortified town called by the locals) is divided into a lower and an upper town. We will visit the lower town first.

Did you know that Giannis Ristos' house is next to the gate? It is the birthplace of this prominent poet and communist. It is marked by a plaque and a bust at the front (1909-1990). The houses and public buildings used a cistern of the acropolis that gave water supply at times of siege.

Once we enter the fortified town, we stroll down the main cobblestone street that leads to the main square. The lower town has many little art galleries, craft shops, several boutique hotels, a couple of small cafe' bars, and a few, very nice restaurants. We tried to eat at the three top restaurants, but there were baptism and wedding celebrations due to the popularity of Monemvasia.

We watched guests getting their spiked heels caught in the cracks of the polished stones on the way to one of the weddings. We found it fascinating to watch them walk on the stones, hoping that there would be no injuries. We toasted to the soon to be married couple at a local taverna along with other attendees and onlookers.

Did you know that more than forty churches exist in the lower town plus the Agia Sofia in the upper town combine the Byzantine and Venetian influences? The most important church is Elkomenos Christos which is the cathedral of Monemvasia. It was famous for his picture in the cathedral and it was founded in the 6th century A.D. Monemvasia has enjoyed centuries of existence as semi-autonomous and living off their commerce as a town of 50, 000 people in its prime during the 15th century.

Most of the lower town has been restored. A lot of Italians, Germans and French bought property within the fortified town at that time and have renovated the buildings as early as the 1980's. They adhered to the guidelines of the Archeological Society (maintaining or enhancing the properties). In addition, new homes are built to appear as the originals and are available to purchase at an exorbitant price.

We will return tomorrow and travel to the upper town. Surprisingly, Monemvasia has been exceptionally well defended and never taken by force even though most of the upper town is in ruins. The Monemvasia Castle walls protect the upper town. A steep climb up narrow, medieval steps as it zigzags up the face of the cliff from the lower town to the tower gate of the upper town. You will love the views at the top of the cliff. The ruins of the town remain include the walls, Guardhouses plus large water systems and the residence of the Venetian Governor. It will bring us onto the vast plateau that was once a thriving town. Now, unfortunately it is completely in ruins with the exception of Agia Sophia. The most important Byzantine church of Agia Sophia operated as a mosque during the Turkish occupation. During the Venetian times, it was converted into a Catholic convent. The last residents descended to the lower town in 1911. It stands on the highest point of Monemvasia and gives us a great view of the Aegean Sea. High above the Lower Town was, originally, the larger section of Monemvasia. Peer over (carefully) over the edge to the Lower Town below and the Peloponnese mainland in the distance. For more information, you may call 01130273105137.

Accommodations are available within the castle walls or in Laconia. Did you know that many hotels within the castle walls (the lower town of Monemvasia) are available for reservations? The hotels will porter your luggage. Otherwise you could be walking around aimlessly without any assistance. The rooms are overpriced for the privilege of being in the castle. We chose that the seaside town (Laconia) across from the "rock" and stayed two nights at the Petrino Guesthouse which was built as a traditional stone building. This is the new city which offers all tourist facilities by the seaside. The guesthouses were basic, clean, and inexpensive and owned by a son and mother. The contact number is 011302732061136.

How do we access Monemvasia from the seaside town of Laconia? No cars are allowed throughout Monemvasia. Supplies are brought in from the causeway each day by donkeys. Originally, the Laconians discovered this remote area by sea. Either park on the road leading to the Castle's Bridge or walk the 100 meters to the bridge and then the remaining meters to the entrance.

Now that you know about Monemvasia, how do we travel to it? Here are several ways by land and by sea. We can discover it by sea, automobile, or bus. We discovered Laconia by automobile. Look at the other researched modes of transportation to Monemvasia. One of them will suit you. We drove the mountain route and the scenic trip on the return.

Did you know that wineries became popular and in recent history, the wine tradition of Monemvasia has a winery situated in the Zarakas region? This vineyard is in the vicinity of KamboKambo and is available for viewing and tasting until the end of August. Therefore, before returning to your departure city or village, stop by at the winery for a tour and tasting.

Access by ship includes from Piraeus or from Kythira and Kasteli, by the flying dolphin or by a private yacht. Githio is in the south, Patra in the northwest and Piraeus (Athens) are main ports of arrival for a trip to Peloponnese and Monemvasia, between April, May and September ferries to and from the few islands surrounding this region can be most helpful if you are visiting several places.

Access by land is from the Sparta-Molaoi road to the south-east or by the coastline. Monemvasia is four hours drive from Athens and ninety-five kilometers from Sparta. It is ninety minutes from Tyro and Mani, eighty minutes from Mystras, and it is 93 km from Sparta. Allow 2.5 hours from the Peloponnesse and four hours from Athens. It is about 285 km (4.5 to 5 hours) from Athens. Choose the scenic or mountainous trip. We chose scenic outbound the mountainous trip on the return trip.

If you take a bus from Athens Airport you can take the Express bus line X93 to the KTEL terminal on Kifissou (line runs 24hrs, with buses every 20-30 minutes). The Bus terminal is at Leoforos Kifissou 100, tel. 011302105246805. One direct bus is at 05:15. There will be a bus change at either Sparta or Molai at 07:15, 14:15, 17:15. On the return, there are three direct buses at 06:00, 10:00; 17:15 from the KTEL Lakonias station. The journey takes about 4.5 hours. There are more buses via Sparta or Molai.

Arrival by air would be from the Kalamata airport (KLX) which is about 130 kilometres from Monemvasia.

We enjoyed this tour because of the varied terrain between the upper and lower towns. The history of Monemvasia was quite worthy of note. There was ample time to see Agia Sophia, the upper and lower towns. Now, you will share your experience. Whether you travel in April when the rock exposes its poppies and daisies, during the summer beach months, or in October for temperate weather, you will be happy that you visited Monemvasia. It attracts thousands of visitors yearly so reserve ahead and enjoy your stay.

by Roberta Mark Engel

I Wish

by Ruth Aroni

I wish trees could tell their stories, what they saw growing up.
I wish I could see angels and heavenly beings.
I wish everyone would learn to laugh and not take life so seriously.
I wish everyone had at least one wish fulfilled every day.
I wish there were no more wars and we could learn to live in peace.
I wish I could hear the astral sounds and the music of the spheres.
I wish I could give joy to those who have none,
hope to those who have none,
and love to those who have none...

From The Oracle of Delphi to the Monasteries of Meteora

Have you ever been to Delphi or Meteora? You are in for a special tour this morning. We will take the Greek National Highway and head north from Athens. Enjoy the drive!

On our way to Delphi, we will see farmland consisting of cotton, tomato and watermelon fields. Approximately 45 minutes later, we will make a quick stop to see the water reservoir of Athens. Then, we will continue traveling through a Livadi (valley) which is surrounded on both sides by mountains. Then, we will stop at Kyra Springs to have a cold drink at a café during the summer months.

Next, we will then travel towards the eleventh century monastery called Osios Lukas. Prior to reaching this monastery, we see a monument which was dedicated to the Greek resistance movement during World War II. We continue our tour by traveling through small villages where Osios Lukas was born and raised. This eleventh century monastery is the vantage point where we can see the top of olive trees surrounded by mountains. It offers quite breathtaking views in the springtime. Did you know that Osios Lukas monastery is a mirror image of the monastery of Agia Sophia in Istanbul?

Let us continue our journey towards Delphi and travel through the town of Arachova which is a popular ski resort in the winter. Fifteen minutes later, we hear the famous Oracle of Delphi. It was the means through which worshipers could hear the words of the god Apollo, spoken through a priestess, or Pythia over the age of 50. Questioners paid a levy called a pelanos and sacrificed an animal on the altar. The questions were then put to the Pythia by a male priest and she would answer in a trance (unfortunately, the answers were often ambiguous), perhaps induced by vapors from a crack in the ground under her feet.

In addition, according to the legend, when Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the world, their paths crossed in the sky above Delphi, establishing the site as the center of the earth. Renowned as a dwelling place of Apollo, from the end of the 8th century BC, individuals from all over the ancient world visited Delphi to consult the god on what course of action to take, both in public and private life. Did you know that the oracle was abolished in 393 with the Christianization of the Byzantine Empire under Theodosius?

We now see the Tholo monument, the gymnasium and the Castalian springs. We also will see the main archaeological site including the treasury, the Sanctuary of Apollo, the ancient theatre and stadium. The museum is next and then a break for lunch at a local Greek taverna which offers a terrific view of an olive grove.

With the political rise of Delphi in the 6th century BC and the reorganization of the Pythian Games, Delphi entered a golden age which lasted until the Romans came in 191 BC. King Croesus of Lydia came to ask if he should make war against Cyrus the Great of Persia and was told that if he crossed a river, then he would destroy a great empire. In marching on Cyrus, his troops crossed the River Halys and he unfortunately, destroyed his own empire.

The Temple of Apollo path was lined with 3, 000 statues and treasures, built by city-states, to house their people’s offerings. The Sanctuary of Apollo is also known as the Sacred Precinct, this is the heart of the complex that also included a stadium and a sacred spring. It is entered through an angora from which the Sacred Way winds through the ruins of memorials and treasuries and led to the Temple of Apollo.

The Temple of Apollo has stood on this site since the 6th century BC, but the remains visible today date from the 4th century BC. Some reconstruction work has been done since French archaeologists uncovered the foundations in 1892, to give an impression of its original grandeur.

The site and Museum are open from April-October from7:30pm Mon-Fri 8:30am-3pm Saturday and Sunday. The phone number is 026582312.

Next, we drive through the mountains and the Thessaliko Valley. How amazing to see the tomato and watermelon fields. After a wonderful nights sleep, we will see six phenomenal monasteries, which were built on top of gigantic rocks in the 14th century. It was used as a religious retreat when, in 985, a hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave here. It is assumed that the first hermits reached the tops of these vertical rock faces, and likely that they hammered pegs into tiny gaps in the rock and hauled building materials to the thousand pinnacles. In the 1920’s, stairs were carved to make the remaining six monasteries more accessible, and today a religious revival has seen the return of many monks and nuns.

In 1336, Athanasos, a monk from Mount Athos founded the monastery of Megalo Meteoro is also known as the Great Meteoran is the highest monastery to be founded. Athana’sios first lived here on one of these thousand pinnacles. Twenty-three monasteries followed, though due largely to their precarious location, many had fallen into ruin by the end of the 18th century. The shrine of Agia Triada stands opposite a well. Agiou Nikolaou is one of Meteora’s soaring monasteries. Rousanou is perched precariously on the very tip of a narrow spire of rock and is he most spectacular of monasteries. Did you know that the church of the Metamorfosis is renounced for its frescoes painted in 1560? Varlam was founded in 1518 after the hermit lived here. It is known for its frescoes. Katholikon is dedicated to Agioi Pantes (all saints); the church is adorned with frescoes. The refractory contains a small icon museum and the Ascent Tower is where goods and people were wrinched up by a windlass mechanism made in 1536.

Megalo Meteora is open on Monday, Wednesday-Sunday. Rousanou is open daily. Agia Triada is open daily. Agios Stefanos is open Tuesday-Sunday. Varlaam is open Monday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Agiou Nikolaou is open April-October daily.
All monasteries are shut from 1-3pm. The phone number is 043222109

We will return to Athens after you have enjoyed lunch along the way. What did you think of Delphi and Meteora? Did you hear the oracle of Delphi? Did you explore Meteora? I am sure that your experience was quite special. We will end our tour in Athens after taking many pictures while experiencing the sites.

by Roberta Mark Engel

Changing a Life

by Anna Bernard

Assignment - write about a gift that changed a life.
I looked around in my imagination and realized I was wasting time because the story was in my reality....

It was a journal, a gift from her daughter. Every year they exchanged gifts of a beautifully bound notebook or journal with an intriguing cover and empty pages.
They were trying to encourage each other to set free the writer in their souls. Time to express yourself - exhale. It was not enough to just inhale other people's thoughts through endless and rapid reading of everything with print on it.
But neither of them marred the lovely books with bitter thoughts, silly musings, or uninspiring recounting of the mundane details of a long work or school day (same thing.)
The mother had begun a series of short mouse stories but had run dry and left the poor mouse characters slumped in a deep depression in the back of some books she had used to teach her younger son to write years before when he was a First Grader.
When he was in Sixth Grade, the mother made a deliberate decision to start writing again and mar the journals up thoroughly. She wrote about the miseries of dealing with self centered people at work, about her rage and sorrow over raising two children with major health issues by herself, about the fickle hesitant man she was currently dating...and then the hesitant man handed her a flyer from the Jewish Community Center about a writing class- not the expensive college kind - but rather an inexpensive $3.00 a session group that met week after week as the spirit moved them.
She went. And she went again and then she kept on going. The assignments compelled her to draw upon her imagination in immediate ways and stretch the boundaries of what she could dream up or reveal. Her pen and the fine listening of others enabled her to wander into deep recesses hunting up imaginary characters, and deep into her own early childhood and back, able at last to describe the traumatic premature birth of her younger child and all the small triumphs and joys of being a mother and a teacher. Finally, she made it into the garden of her hopes where gladiolas bloomed in handsome profusion and ladybugs went from a slow crawl to sudden flight which could result in the finding of mates and such.
She began to sense that there was a link from the words on the paper to reality - that the feelings behind the words she wrote would draw the man. It was an irrational faith but she was confident enough to shake off the unsuitable suitor and wait.
Two months later, the mate was there - not a chance meeting in a bookstore, a computer date, or a friend of a friend. None of those.
He appeared in the writing class, having decided to make friends again with the writer in his soul.
A simple gift of a journal resulting in a new life.
Everything changed rapidly. Behind their new home and in the front, bloomed sunrise roses, azaleas, daisies, poppies, daffodils, sunflowers, and everywhere,
in blazing red and orange, white, and subtle pink--the proud gladiolas.
(The daughter you wonder? She writes with skill and vast amounts of confidence. She wrote her way into an M.A. in English and teaches high school children how to write clearly and concisely - academic writing. There is always more than one way to pursue a dream....)

Clouds

by Gary Bernard

The clouds
Puffed liked a cornered cat
Gray and menacing
Casting a darkness
Over the singleness of my will
With my bare feet
stretched out over the edge of a rock
waiting
as the waves beside them danced
And the long deepening blue Pacific
Rippled and crashed before my eyes
I only knew distance in miles
Not in the goodbye she presented me with
I could not bear this time
This distance
This time apart

Walkin' in the Sunshine

Walkin’ in the Sunshine
By Roberta Mark Engel

Did you know that Athens has fewer gardens than any other European city? Because of this fact; there are 2.5 square meters of greenery per person compared to the 10 square meters of a more garden friendly European city. The European Environmental Bureau considers 10 square meters of public grassy recreational centers “tolerable.” Yet, this rarity in Athens makes parks quite an escape from the fast paced life of the city. The Philopappou Hill, National Gardens, Mount Parnitha, Syngrou Estates, Kaisariani and Mt. Hymettus, and Lycabettus Hill are well maintained gardens. Some have been spruced up with new benches and herbaceous borders. In addition, all provide a respite from traffic fumes and honking horns. Come join us for a walking tour of “Walkin’ in the Sunshine.” We need our walking shoes, sunblock, water and a camera. Now, we are read to enjoy!

The Piliopappou Hill

The Philiopappou Hill has the largest green expanse in the capital, which is south of the Acropolis. Philopappou hill offers an impressive view of the Acropolis. But, how do we access this garden? The Acropolis metro station and Dionysiou Areopagitou Street is a great short walk in Athens or we take bus 230 (stops at Syntagma) which will also take us to the main entry point.

After the main entry point, we will take a path that circles the top of the hill which is a distance of 2km. Opposite the church is a narrow path that will take us to the Roman monument that crowns the hill. The hill also has ancient carvings in the rock itself. An ancient fortification wall remains with excellent views of the city.

The National Garden

Did you know that the National Garden was laid out by the first queen of modern Greece? It still shows traces of Athen’s long history. This park is centrally located and regularly visited by locals and visitors. It is next to the House of Parliament. The cross streets of this attractive venue are Zappeio, Irodou Attikou Street and Vassilissis Sofias Avenues. The winding paths cut through the dense foliage, past a sunken Roman mosaic floor, a duck pond, a fountain, an alley overhung with wisteria, and a section of an ancient column and a column overgrown with a vine. We will enter through Vassilissis Amalias Avenue, the rear of Zappeion Hall, Irodou Arrikou Street or Vassilissis Sofias Avenue.

Mount Parnitha and Houni Gorge

Did you know that Mount Parnitha is the nearest national park to Athens? It has 1,100 plant species and is one of the few places in Greece where red deer can be found. We can take the 714 bus from Vathis Square to the funicular railway which takes us up to the casino on Mt. Parnitha. The bus also goes all the way up to the mountains on the weekends. From the casino, turn right onto a path that runs parallel to the Greek Alpine Club which serves food on the weekends. We will ask for directions to the path down the Houni Gorge which leads back to the parking lot. Most importantly, we will remain on the path or we will get lost.

Syngrou Estates

The Syngrou Estates are located in Athen’s northern suburb of Maroussi. This piece of unspoiled countryside on the eastern side of Kifissias Avenue causes people to forget that they are near the center of the capital city. To the right of the main entrance on Kifissias Avenue are the original stables of a once grand country estate. Did you know that charming old buildings now house administration offices around an enclosed garden which allows no cars except staff vehicles? The estate is open from dawn to dusk to the public. How do we get there? Transportation is by metro Line 1 (ISAP) to Maroussi or KAT; by busses 550, A7, B7, or E7 along Kifissias Avenue. By car from Athens, turn right through the entrance at the lights for the “KAT” turnoff on Kifissias Avenue. Parking is available.

Kaisariani and Mt. Hymettus

We will turn left and take a walk until we come to a clearly marked turnoff down a well-maintained path that will take you back down to the monastery. How do we get there? We will take the 224 bus from Academias Street or Vassilissis Sofias Avenue or the 223 from Kaningos Square to the entrance. From there, we will walk up the hill (about 20-30 minutes walk) to the monastery.

Lycabettus Hill

For a panoramic view of the capital, we will make our way up the hill to the White Chapel of Aghios Georgios is on top. There are three main approaches. One starts from Dexameni Square in the neighborhood of Kolonaki. We will turn right at the St. George Lycabettus hotel, cross the street and climb the steps to Aristippou Street, where we will find a paved winding path to take us all the way to the top. Option two is from the corner of Paligennesias and Daskaloyianni streets, on the northern side of the hill, where a paved road winds up to the square of an open-air theater. A steep path starts shortly before that point or there is another paved road leading to the theater, which begins from Sarantapichou Street on the southern side of the hill. The third choice is by a funicular railway to be accessed on Aristippou Street.

Now, we have seen all of the gardens when “Walkin’ in the Sunshine”. We hope you enjoyed the tour of The Philopappou Hill, National Gardens, Mount Parnitha, Syngrou Estates, Kaisariani and Mt. Hymettus, and Lycabettus Hill. These gardens offer us an experience not normally journeyed in a busy city as Athens.

Deep into the Night

By Ruth Aroni

I have languished
in cerebral slum alleys
And tiptoed past
Your midnight light.
Now I come to You
With singed fingers
Silence ringing in my years.
I chant Your prayer
Deep into the night.
I see cobwebs of indifference
Surrounding my patio chair
And now I know the answer-
I have to care.

Gracie, A True Lady of Greece

By Roberta Mark Engel

Did you know that my residence used to be in Thessalaniki, Northern Greece? I have given birth to over thirty five puppies during my seven years as a stray dog until my adoption over a year ago.

My parents were on holiday in Thessaloniki and took me to my new home in Athens. This was an easier life for me. I had a garden even though I lived in an apartment. I had two human brothers to play with and lots of food and water. I was loved until I became-pregnant. As you can guess, I appear to be quite fertile. I now had another liter-five adorable puppies.

But, my story has a negative twist. My parents drove me out to the country, took my collar off, stopped the car in a field in Xiropigado, and pushed me out of the automobile with my litter of four new pups. Yes, my parents chose the pick of the offspring for themselves. I was now a tramp in their eyes.

I have shaggy black fur. It is silky in texture, but uneven in appearance. I am chunky because I used to live on moths as a stray. Now that I live in the country, I have varied my diet with chicken eggs. I poach these eggs from Kiriakos Yiannis who has threatened to shoot me for my pilferage. He doesn’t care that I am sweet and docile. I am just a little hungry! Alright, I did bit the yiayia on the leg. She carried a big stick and it frightened me. Even though, I made this transgression, I am told that I have a wonderful personality. I am not very attractive, but I am quiet and attentive. I also have a talent of producing gorgeous puppies. Just look at them. What a proud mamma!

Aunt Carla found us! She lives in the big house across from the field of the brambles and thorns. She fed us every day. Unfortunately, my puppies stole my food. That is when I learned to survive on moths and chicken eggs. The moths were especially in plentiful supply, especially during the summer months.

Soon my life improved. After eight months, I was adopted once again. Unfortunately, mommy and daddy were in the U.S. every third month. But, they returned home to me over and over again. They took me to the doctor to get rid of my limp, severe allergies, worms, fleas and ticks. They even bathed me (the first one I ever had). It was cool! They have a dog in the U.S. so they know how to treat me like a lady.

Oops, I am pregnant again. I am sorry mommy and daddy. Thanks for preparing to stop my future reproductions, but my diet of eggs and moths has caused me to gain quite a bit of weight. Yiatros Visiles didn’t want to perform surgery until I lost weight. Yes, I am chunky or pleasantly plump. OK, obese.

I am living with Dimitris until mommy and daddy return. He is cool. He lets me hang out in the kennel office with him while he answers calls. I am his mascot and we are pals. What a cool life. He has me on a strict diet so I can lose weight. I am quite tired of giving birth. It is difficult.

I need to talk with you later. Mommy and daddy are here. I am going home!!

How am I doing now? I am quite healthy, happy, and just the correct weight. I eat proper dog food and food scraps. I am as friendly as ever, love people, and I am not afraid!

Happy Trails

Are you interested in walking along the local paseos in your neighborhood? Do you prefer to hike in your hills? Or do you wish to drive your car to another location and walk through the locality? Do you have one, two, or three hours to spare during the week for pure exhilaration and enjoyment? If your answer is yes, then power walking may be for you and “Happy Trails”!

But, are you nervous that the endless paseo trails will lead you astray? Are you fearful that a search party will need to be sent out for you? If so, stay at home!

One of the greatest pleasures in my life is striding. Hiking as a couple, group or jaunting alone works well. Join a walking group that meets at specific locations and a planned program to accommodate the speed you desire. Or, take a brisk walk to meet a friend, buy groceries (great for a triceps/biceps workout) or shop in a department store which will provide built in rest stops. How about walking with your dog, especially if he is high energy like our hound?

I discovered walking in college. Thirty eight years after college, I have learned that I am neither the fastest nor the youngest walker in the universe. I have also realized that my final walking goal is racing against the clock (i.e., achieve the end by traveling at a fast pace, but by not having a heart attack).

As you have read, there is a partner for everyone including a walking colleague for your dog. Even if you are a "solo act," finding your “Happy Trails” is pleasurable. I have not purchased anything along the way except health and fun. I have been seriously into fitness since I turned thirty. If this is the ticket to a long life, I hope I am a winner.

by Roberta Mark Engel

Rescue Center

by Ruth Aroni

I work at the Rescue Center
and every morning around 11:00 my friend, Victoria,
who also works there but speaks little English,
says "coffee."
I go to the kitchen,
get out the instant Folgers and some sugar.
I fill up the two cups with hot water
and French Vanilla creamer
and bring the two cups back to our room.
We drink the coffee together,
two friends, united by our work,
although we cannot talk to each other
except by gestures and hugs.

A Walk on the Wild Side

Are you interested in a more in depth tour of Arkadia? Come join us for a “Walk on the Wild Side” of the most picturesque mountain villages in Arkadia. As an added bonus, we will tour Athens, Tripoli, and Olympia. Sit back, get your camera ready. We will look, walk, talk, take pictures, and eat!

We will see the Acropolis, the New Acropolis Museum, Lycabettus Hill, Philopapus Hill, the Presidential Palace, the Plaka, National Archeological Museum, and the Benaki Museum. The new Acropolis Museum is one of the most acclaimed museums in the world. After seeing the Acropolis, we will go and see the National Kalimarmaro Stadium that was originally built in 330 BC is made out of marble and is the only existing marble stadium in the world today. The Marathon of the 2004 Olympics ended in this stadium. Of course, while touring, we will see some monuments such as the Academy, the University and our National Library. Another important monument we will see is the “Marathon man” which is made of fiber glass and is located across from the Hilton hotel. It was built in dedication to the Greek soldier Phidippides who in 490 BC ran from the town of Marathon to Athens (about 26 miles) to announce that the Persians had been defeated. He shouted “nenikikamen!” which means “We won!” in ancient Greek and collapsed of exhaustion and died.

Continuing our tour, we will see the changing of the guards which takes place in front of the Presidential Palace. This is also one of the most expensive real estate areas in Athens (Herodou Atticou). Across from the Greek Parliament is the National Gardens where Athenians take a walk and relax during hot summer days. In front of the Presidential Palace is a unique show with fifty-two national guards (in their white uniforms) every Sunday and accompanied by a band (once a month on a Sunday), march down the street for a Change of the Guard Ceremony which ends in front of the Unknown Soldier monument. This is a wonderful event to witness!

Spend Saturday evening at the Grande Bretagne Hotel in a deluxe room and view across the street to the Presidential Palace on a Sunday morning. Shoot a video as you will hear the band quite well. This is the Soho area of Athens. The Athenians gather in Kolonaki Square to have Greek coffee and chat at the cafes nearby. Here you will see the real Greek culture. Kolonaki also has some of the best shopping stores of known fashion designers. We drive up through the narrow streets of Kolonaki to Lycabettus hill which is the tallest hill in Athens (its height reaches 277meters). We then head to the Plaka area which owes its name to a large stone slab found in the area of the church of St. George of Alexandria. We will have a wonderful lunch and then, we will head towards Tripoli.

Did you know that Tripoli is a large, metropolitan city of about 15, 000 inhabitants in the central part of the Peloponnese, in Greece? It is the capital of Arcadia. It was founded in the 14th century by settlers from Albania. It then became the seat of the Parsha of the Morea (ruler of Turkey). It was captured by Kolokotrinis in 1821, but it was eventually destroyed by Ibrahim Pasha in 1828. Trípoli is in the center of the surrounding agricultural region. Must seas are the sanctuary of Alea Athena and the Tegea Archaeological Museum. The temple is dated back the first half of the 4th century B.C.

The Archeological Museum of Tegea is newer construction from the 20th century. Professor Konstantinos Romaios was the first curator of the museum. The museum collections include early antiquities (sculptures, inscriptions, clay and metal artifacts, and architectural parts). We will spend one night at the Mainalon Resort Hotel which has been newly renovated. We also recommend the Cellar restaurant is located in the Kendriki Platia which is called Agios Vasilios. The restaurant has a street level. You must walk down into the restaurant level where the food is displayed and you order what is in season.

The following day, we begin our tour of the mountain villages which includes Agios Petros, Doliana, Vasta, Megalopoli, Koutroufa, Sitaina, Platanos, Kastanitsa, Lagadia, Kerasia, Tsakonia, Demitsana and Stemnitsa.

We will purchase cheese, at the local cheese store called Agiopetriko in Agios Petros. Agios Petros is mainly visited by pilgrims going to the Holy Monastery of Malevi. It has approximately 1, 000 inhabitants. In the village, there is a hotel, tavernas with local specialties, general stores, bakeries and delicious local sweets. Agios Petros is at an altitude of 900 m. It belongs to the Municipality of Northern Kinouria and it is 37 kilometers from Tripoli.

We will stop for lunch at Doliana at Peorgios. Doliana is a distance of 26 kilometers from Tripoli with an elevation of 920 meters. It is known since antiquity, but also later, because it produced marble of excellent quality. Doliana defeated the Turks on May 18, 1821.

Then, we will experience the tale of St. Theodora. You will enjoy this experience also! St. Theodora lived during the tenth century on the Peloponnesus in Greece, near the border between the regions of Messenia and Arcadia in a town called Vasta. When the area was raided by bandits, Theodora was determined to help defend her village, but, women were not permitted to do so. Even though, it was prohibited, Theodora secretly disguised herself as a male soldier in order to join the defense. Ultimately, Theodora did not survive.

But, as she lay dying she uttered the following words: "Let my body become a church, my hair a forest of trees, and my blood a spring to water them." The villagers were moved by her bravery and her untimely death, so they built a church at the site of her grave. A local river was re-routed to pass directly under the church. Eventually, trees sprouted from the roof of the church. I noticed that the roots of were not visible under the roof nor outside the church as they have not been visible for hundreds of years. In addition, this chapel (St. Theodora in Vasta) supports 17 large trees that emerge from the roof and the walls of the chapel. Each tree weighs close to a ton and stands over 20 meters high. Locals could not find a scientific explanation for this church. Many researchers have spent years studying this structure, even x-raying the walls, but have no explanation for the roots of the trees. This In 2003, a geophysical report was presented at the 4th Symposium of Archaeometry in Greece. The results of this investigation proved that the roots followed the gaps existing inside the stone wall of the chapel. It created repulsion stresses between the stones on the ground. This caused a spring to come out from underneath the chapel.

Did you know that Megalopoli is a town on the western part of Arkadia? It was founded in 371 BC. It is 30 kilometers from Tripoli. In Byzantine and Ottoman times, the city was known as Sinanou until the 19th century. It was the first urbanization in the primative Arkadia. It has quite an upscale caffineo which will be great for afternoon relaxation.

Then, we will drive to Sitaina which has an ancient Byzantine Church. Platanos is southeast of Tripoli, 71 kilometers away. Platanos is built on the slopes of Mount Pamon and is surrounded by fir, chestnut, pine and plane trees. It is a settlement with narrow stone-paved streets, whitewashed houses. We will have chestnuts and tea in a caffineou in Kastanitsa which is a complete mountain settlement and is at an elevation of 840 meters. The famous feast if the “Feast of the Chestnut” is held every year in the last week of October. Kastanitsa has wonderful quaint hotels. Lunch is in the oldest village of Tsakonia dating back from 1293 A.D. The cobblestone alleys are mixed with the very tall stone towers and the other castle-like houses. At the center of the village is the church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior which is magnificent as it was built 250 years ago! Around the village you can count 20 chapels. Most in the main town were recently renovated or new. I am sure that you will enjoy the evening also. You will wake up to beautiful mountain air as we did.

Then, our “Walk on the Wild Side” continues with Lagadia which is an elevation of 960 meters and on the road from Tripoli to Olympia; we saw the most picturesque principal village or town of Arcadia. Lagadia is also surrounded by fur trees and the traditional stone-built homes are perched on the slopes of the mountains. The stone houses with two-four stories were creations of the renowned Lagardian master workers. One of the greatest sites besides the Deligiannis House is the Metropolitan Church of Taxiahes. Kerasia is to the right of Tripoli. It is a lovely village which is part of the municipality of Skyritida.

The return trip was through sister villages of Demitsana and Stemnitsa. From Tripoli to Pygros and after Kambeas, we meet the settlement of Karkalos, then we turn right, and after 8 kilometers, we enter Demitsana. We take a tour of the two statues and houses of Patriarch Gregory V and Germanos, Bishop of Patra and the Ecclesiastical Museum, the library, and the folk life collection. We then see Stemnitsa which is the seat of the Municipality of Trikolana. It houses five hundred inhabitants, but it can reach 1000-2000 inhabitants during the summer months. It was chosen as the headquarters of the first Senate of the Peloponnese. Traffic is quite heavy, even during the off times.

To continue with our “Walk on the Wild Side,” will be Olympia. We travel to the west of the Peloponnese towards Ancient Olympia. When night falls, we will sleep at a very nice hotel in Ancient Olympia. The next day, we will visit the village of ancient Olympia where we will see the ancient stadium, the temple of Hera, the Palaestra, Phidias’ workshop, the Philippaeum, the Temple of Zeus, the Leonideum, and the Roman Baths. Did you know that the sanctuary of Olympia is in a lush region irrigated by two rivers, the Alpheus and the Cladeus? The sacred grove of Zeus was filled with plane trees and wild olives that were dedicated to him who was the father of all gods and mortals.

Approaching the archeological site before you reach the museum parking area, we will cross a bridge over the Cladeus River. The riverbed remains dry for most of the year now but in ancient times it was one of Olympia’s vital rivers. We will need to enter the sanctuary on the north side and proceed along the length of the Gymnasium. The southeast section of the site that contained the Hippodrome has been washed away by the waters of the Alpheus River. Did you know that excavations began at Olympia in the 19th century, but continue to this day? Important finds included sculptures from the Temple of Zeus, the Nike of Paeonius, the Hermes of Praxiteles and many bronzes. In total 14,000 objects were recorded. Did you also know that Hercules measured the length (600 feet) of the stadium at Olympia by pacing it out himself? It measures 600 feet. The Temple of Zeus was the largest Doric temple in the Peloponnese and it was built to house the gold and ivory statue of Zeus. The first major excavation of Olympia began in 1975 which was funded by the German government. At night, we will return to Athens from the west of the Peloponnese accompanied with the view of the Ionian Sea. Then, we can view the athletic facilities and visitor accommodations (guest houses baths etc).

We hope you enjoyed an “A Walk on the Wild Side”. We personally toured the mountain villages last winter and Olympia several years ago. Each village had it’s own special feeling. You walked in our paths from Athens, Tripoli, Olympia, Agios Petros, Doliana, Vasta, Megalopoli, Koutroufa, Sitaina, Platanos, Kastanitsa, Lagadia, Kerasia, Tsakonia, Demitsana, Stemnitsa, Olympia and Athens. Please say yassas (hello) as you pass the villagers. They certainly will respond with herete (welcome).

“A Walk on the Wild Side” is a 1956 novel by Nelson Algren and later, a 1972 song by Lou Reed.

Roberta Mark Engel

A Get Well Wish

by Anna, Gary, David, Ruth and George

Rita is sun warmed like an apricot in early summer
Dreaming up mischievous notions from the heights of a tree house
She makes me feel it's always a good time to call
Makes me want to look under the hospital bed
and rescue her mojo back from the wicked dust bunny...
Rita is bright yellow dancing behind a sly white smile
and a mischievous grin
She is like finding a leprechaun at the end of a rainbow
and wondering in so many ways
How am I going to spend this wealth and good fortune?...
Rita reminds me of a yellow calm
and she makes me even more peaceful
She can laugh at herself
which makes her a success at all she does...
Rita is a vibrant pink
like a fresh picked rose
Her smile is like a summer morning, sunny and new
She is always optimistic, laughter in the wind
I want to hug her silently and draw her to me...
Rita is like a rainbow, multicolored
and full of surprises...
(Feel better!!)