The Greek Rock of Gibraltar

See the medieval Byzantine and Venetian fortress perched on the three hundred meter high Rock of Gibraltar of Greece. A narrow strip of land links the Laconian coast with the "rock". This reddish-brown boulder is surrounded by the indigo colored sea and enjoys the Mediterranean sun. Benefit from the trek up the steep terrain of the "Greek Rock of Gibraltar" because the views are fabulous. Don't forget to wear your tennis shoes and take a camera. Let's hike!

Did you know that Monemvasia was discovered during the 6th century (around 583) by Byzantine Greeks seeking refuge from the Slavic invaders? For 700 years, it remained under Byzantine rule. Monemvasia began as a seaport in the west of Italy in the middle Ages. In the 12th century, Monemvasia survived attacks by the Arabs and Normans. In 1249, it was taken over by the Frankish crusaders. In 1259, the castle of Monemvasia was given back to the Byzantines. In 1491, the Venetians took control. In 1540, the Turks captured it after a three-year siege. The Venetians re-captured it in 1690, but in 1715, they sold it to their adversaries. Monemvasia was finally liberated by the Greeks on July 23, 1821.

Now, we walk through the corridor leading to the castle entrance (the rock) with its iron gates. Monemvasia means moni emvasi (single entrance). The Kastro (fortified town called by the locals) is divided into a lower and an upper town. We will visit the lower town first.

Did you know that Giannis Ristos' house is next to the gate? It is the birthplace of this prominent poet and communist. It is marked by a plaque and a bust at the front (1909-1990). The houses and public buildings used a cistern of the acropolis that gave water supply at times of siege.

Once we enter the fortified town, we stroll down the main cobblestone street that leads to the main square. The lower town has many little art galleries, craft shops, several boutique hotels, a couple of small cafe' bars, and a few, very nice restaurants. We tried to eat at the three top restaurants, but there were baptism and wedding celebrations due to the popularity of Monemvasia.

We watched guests getting their spiked heels caught in the cracks of the polished stones on the way to one of the weddings. We found it fascinating to watch them walk on the stones, hoping that there would be no injuries. We toasted to the soon to be married couple at a local taverna along with other attendees and onlookers.

Did you know that more than forty churches exist in the lower town plus the Agia Sofia in the upper town combine the Byzantine and Venetian influences? The most important church is Elkomenos Christos which is the cathedral of Monemvasia. It was famous for his picture in the cathedral and it was founded in the 6th century A.D. Monemvasia has enjoyed centuries of existence as semi-autonomous and living off their commerce as a town of 50, 000 people in its prime during the 15th century.

Most of the lower town has been restored. A lot of Italians, Germans and French bought property within the fortified town at that time and have renovated the buildings as early as the 1980's. They adhered to the guidelines of the Archeological Society (maintaining or enhancing the properties). In addition, new homes are built to appear as the originals and are available to purchase at an exorbitant price.

We will return tomorrow and travel to the upper town. Surprisingly, Monemvasia has been exceptionally well defended and never taken by force even though most of the upper town is in ruins. The Monemvasia Castle walls protect the upper town. A steep climb up narrow, medieval steps as it zigzags up the face of the cliff from the lower town to the tower gate of the upper town. You will love the views at the top of the cliff. The ruins of the town remain include the walls, Guardhouses plus large water systems and the residence of the Venetian Governor. It will bring us onto the vast plateau that was once a thriving town. Now, unfortunately it is completely in ruins with the exception of Agia Sophia. The most important Byzantine church of Agia Sophia operated as a mosque during the Turkish occupation. During the Venetian times, it was converted into a Catholic convent. The last residents descended to the lower town in 1911. It stands on the highest point of Monemvasia and gives us a great view of the Aegean Sea. High above the Lower Town was, originally, the larger section of Monemvasia. Peer over (carefully) over the edge to the Lower Town below and the Peloponnese mainland in the distance. For more information, you may call 01130273105137.

Accommodations are available within the castle walls or in Laconia. Did you know that many hotels within the castle walls (the lower town of Monemvasia) are available for reservations? The hotels will porter your luggage. Otherwise you could be walking around aimlessly without any assistance. The rooms are overpriced for the privilege of being in the castle. We chose that the seaside town (Laconia) across from the "rock" and stayed two nights at the Petrino Guesthouse which was built as a traditional stone building. This is the new city which offers all tourist facilities by the seaside. The guesthouses were basic, clean, and inexpensive and owned by a son and mother. The contact number is 011302732061136.

How do we access Monemvasia from the seaside town of Laconia? No cars are allowed throughout Monemvasia. Supplies are brought in from the causeway each day by donkeys. Originally, the Laconians discovered this remote area by sea. Either park on the road leading to the Castle's Bridge or walk the 100 meters to the bridge and then the remaining meters to the entrance.

Now that you know about Monemvasia, how do we travel to it? Here are several ways by land and by sea. We can discover it by sea, automobile, or bus. We discovered Laconia by automobile. Look at the other researched modes of transportation to Monemvasia. One of them will suit you. We drove the mountain route and the scenic trip on the return.

Did you know that wineries became popular and in recent history, the wine tradition of Monemvasia has a winery situated in the Zarakas region? This vineyard is in the vicinity of KamboKambo and is available for viewing and tasting until the end of August. Therefore, before returning to your departure city or village, stop by at the winery for a tour and tasting.

Access by ship includes from Piraeus or from Kythira and Kasteli, by the flying dolphin or by a private yacht. Githio is in the south, Patra in the northwest and Piraeus (Athens) are main ports of arrival for a trip to Peloponnese and Monemvasia, between April, May and September ferries to and from the few islands surrounding this region can be most helpful if you are visiting several places.

Access by land is from the Sparta-Molaoi road to the south-east or by the coastline. Monemvasia is four hours drive from Athens and ninety-five kilometers from Sparta. It is ninety minutes from Tyro and Mani, eighty minutes from Mystras, and it is 93 km from Sparta. Allow 2.5 hours from the Peloponnesse and four hours from Athens. It is about 285 km (4.5 to 5 hours) from Athens. Choose the scenic or mountainous trip. We chose scenic outbound the mountainous trip on the return trip.

If you take a bus from Athens Airport you can take the Express bus line X93 to the KTEL terminal on Kifissou (line runs 24hrs, with buses every 20-30 minutes). The Bus terminal is at Leoforos Kifissou 100, tel. 011302105246805. One direct bus is at 05:15. There will be a bus change at either Sparta or Molai at 07:15, 14:15, 17:15. On the return, there are three direct buses at 06:00, 10:00; 17:15 from the KTEL Lakonias station. The journey takes about 4.5 hours. There are more buses via Sparta or Molai.

Arrival by air would be from the Kalamata airport (KLX) which is about 130 kilometres from Monemvasia.

We enjoyed this tour because of the varied terrain between the upper and lower towns. The history of Monemvasia was quite worthy of note. There was ample time to see Agia Sophia, the upper and lower towns. Now, you will share your experience. Whether you travel in April when the rock exposes its poppies and daisies, during the summer beach months, or in October for temperate weather, you will be happy that you visited Monemvasia. It attracts thousands of visitors yearly so reserve ahead and enjoy your stay.

by Roberta Mark Engel