A Chest of Childhood

by Anna Bernard

Small cotton blankets
Food provided by others
A bunny, a teddy, a froggy, a lamb
Bedtime when the sky is still blue
Way too much darkness in the night
and far too much night.
Constant expectation
dovetailing with fabulous ability
to learn
to observe
to express
the happiest laughs
The most despairing tears.
The feeling that if you run,
you can fly
Your feet will tuck up like birds' legs
like plane wheels
and you will soar - wind in your face
air making a cushion
on your lizard blue belly side.
Baby fine hair
streaming like Maypole ribbons
and in the air you'll stay
until you want to come down
and do fish swims
until dinnertime.

Embroidering Flowers

by Ruth Aroni

I have a memory of myself in the garden,
Embroidering flowers
And soaking up the sun,
Gazing at the lush green grass
And the vines of leaves
Gracefully intertwining from
The massive oak tree.
I have a memory of myself in
The Chapel,
Chanting to God,
Then quietly meditating,
Bursting with joy
And hearing the sound of the
Universe.
I have a memory of myself onstage,
Twelve years old
In front of thousands of people,
In Cinderella
Singing and bellowing the words.
I played a mouse and got to
Be in almost every scene,
What joy...
I have a memory of myself
In the window,
Gazing at my reflection
And asking myself, "Who are you?"
"A poet," I answer
Again, "Who are you?"
Over and over again, "Who are you?"

Hydra, As a Museum

Hydra is a picturesque popular Greek island in the Saronic Gulf. Look at the red-tiled houses and stone-paved narrow alleys. This gulf lies between the islands of Poros and Spetses, near the coast of the eastern end of the Peloponnese. Hydra is known as the "museum island" which has remained since the 1800's. Rich villas, artists, writers, and film makers still make their residences in Hydra since the sixties. The island still maintains a highly cosmopolitan character.



Some of the best spring and fall hiking are in Hydra. Hikes range from simple to difficult. At Easter, the island is carpeted with flowers. In September, the weather is temperate. We must hike after Easter or before September, start before dawn, and be back before noon. That is why summer is not the best time to ramble on Hydra. It has a reputation as the hottest of Greek islands. It has very little shade. The curve of the Peloponnese blocks sea winds and the breezes do not help with the scorching summer heat. Wear sunscreen and drink plenty of bottled water. It is worth the hike to The Profitis Ilias Monastery which is perched on the highest hill above the town. Wear walking shoes because of the cobblestones. Drink bottled water only because the wells (pigadia) are low so the tap water is pumped into the tanks at the harbor from the Peloponnese. This water creates thirst. Did you know that most residents maintain a cistern (sterna) under their houses to store delicious rainwater which they drink all summer? We need to be careful, even though we feel safer carrying a mobile phone because there can be spotty service.

Aside from the views from the monastery, every year there is a celebration of the famous fire of then Admiral Miaoulis which ends in the burning of a ship at sea. But, maybe we are interested in art? The yearly summer exhibition is at the Hydra's Melina Mercouri Gallery. We stumbled on the works of Michael Lawrence at the exhibition and found that Michael Lawrence was born at the same hospital as my husband. He is also a native Californian who is a contemporary painter and sculptor and a full-time resident of Hydra. And what a pleasure to see his paintings! It was enjoyable meeting a native Californian who also has a residence in Greece.

How do we get here? We can take a car ferry from Piraeus Harbor. It also leaves daily during the warmer months from Ermioni. The ferry trip is 3.5 hours and the hydrofoil from Ermioni takes approximately 20 minutes. Ermioni is a small quiet harbor located on the eastern part of the Peloponnese that has several cafes and tavernas to visit while waiting for our transportation to the island.

Hotels are approximately 50 Euros or more per night, so reserve early. The Hydroussa Hotel and the Four Seasons is a couple of hotels for 80 plus euros per night. As far as I am concerned, accommodations are important to our enjoyment of a trip. It might be worth the extra money to get luxury.

Did we hike, see the reenactment of the ship burning, see artwork from one of the resident artists? What about a mule ride? Whatever our preference, we enjoyed our stay on the island of Hydra. Let us return again and again!

by Roberta Mark Engel

My Only Card

By Rita Murstein Wohl

You have left me. I am now alone.
God knows I did not want this to be.
Please come back to me as a wispy thought.
Please come in a bold dream when I can hold you...

I turn to talk to you and you are not there.
I ask a question and know that the mysteries will
forever be a part of me...

Why do these yearnings grow?
Even a taper has an end.
The glowing memories almost seem
a gateway to hell on earth.

I want to welcome my father home,
sit on his lap and ask him about my world.
When can I miss my mother in my most wrenching way
and yet know that she will return?

Can Lila and I ever again tell secrets in the dark at night
or scare each other in a fright?

Can I ever feel a protective arm that lets me rest from the world?
I am so tired. I need to rest but I must stay at attention
so that I don't miss you.

When you speak badly to me,
when you are not right with me,
you can't do that.
There were people who would not let you
say these things to me.
As I get older my protectors slip away.
My age is the only card I have to play.

The Greek Rock of Gibraltar

See the medieval Byzantine and Venetian fortress perched on the three hundred meter high Rock of Gibraltar of Greece. A narrow strip of land links the Laconian coast with the "rock". This reddish-brown boulder is surrounded by the indigo colored sea and enjoys the Mediterranean sun. Benefit from the trek up the steep terrain of the "Greek Rock of Gibraltar" because the views are fabulous. Don't forget to wear your tennis shoes and take a camera. Let's hike!

Did you know that Monemvasia was discovered during the 6th century (around 583) by Byzantine Greeks seeking refuge from the Slavic invaders? For 700 years, it remained under Byzantine rule. Monemvasia began as a seaport in the west of Italy in the middle Ages. In the 12th century, Monemvasia survived attacks by the Arabs and Normans. In 1249, it was taken over by the Frankish crusaders. In 1259, the castle of Monemvasia was given back to the Byzantines. In 1491, the Venetians took control. In 1540, the Turks captured it after a three-year siege. The Venetians re-captured it in 1690, but in 1715, they sold it to their adversaries. Monemvasia was finally liberated by the Greeks on July 23, 1821.

Now, we walk through the corridor leading to the castle entrance (the rock) with its iron gates. Monemvasia means moni emvasi (single entrance). The Kastro (fortified town called by the locals) is divided into a lower and an upper town. We will visit the lower town first.

Did you know that Giannis Ristos' house is next to the gate? It is the birthplace of this prominent poet and communist. It is marked by a plaque and a bust at the front (1909-1990). The houses and public buildings used a cistern of the acropolis that gave water supply at times of siege.

Once we enter the fortified town, we stroll down the main cobblestone street that leads to the main square. The lower town has many little art galleries, craft shops, several boutique hotels, a couple of small cafe' bars, and a few, very nice restaurants. We tried to eat at the three top restaurants, but there were baptism and wedding celebrations due to the popularity of Monemvasia.

We watched guests getting their spiked heels caught in the cracks of the polished stones on the way to one of the weddings. We found it fascinating to watch them walk on the stones, hoping that there would be no injuries. We toasted to the soon to be married couple at a local taverna along with other attendees and onlookers.

Did you know that more than forty churches exist in the lower town plus the Agia Sofia in the upper town combine the Byzantine and Venetian influences? The most important church is Elkomenos Christos which is the cathedral of Monemvasia. It was famous for his picture in the cathedral and it was founded in the 6th century A.D. Monemvasia has enjoyed centuries of existence as semi-autonomous and living off their commerce as a town of 50, 000 people in its prime during the 15th century.

Most of the lower town has been restored. A lot of Italians, Germans and French bought property within the fortified town at that time and have renovated the buildings as early as the 1980's. They adhered to the guidelines of the Archeological Society (maintaining or enhancing the properties). In addition, new homes are built to appear as the originals and are available to purchase at an exorbitant price.

We will return tomorrow and travel to the upper town. Surprisingly, Monemvasia has been exceptionally well defended and never taken by force even though most of the upper town is in ruins. The Monemvasia Castle walls protect the upper town. A steep climb up narrow, medieval steps as it zigzags up the face of the cliff from the lower town to the tower gate of the upper town. You will love the views at the top of the cliff. The ruins of the town remain include the walls, Guardhouses plus large water systems and the residence of the Venetian Governor. It will bring us onto the vast plateau that was once a thriving town. Now, unfortunately it is completely in ruins with the exception of Agia Sophia. The most important Byzantine church of Agia Sophia operated as a mosque during the Turkish occupation. During the Venetian times, it was converted into a Catholic convent. The last residents descended to the lower town in 1911. It stands on the highest point of Monemvasia and gives us a great view of the Aegean Sea. High above the Lower Town was, originally, the larger section of Monemvasia. Peer over (carefully) over the edge to the Lower Town below and the Peloponnese mainland in the distance. For more information, you may call 01130273105137.

Accommodations are available within the castle walls or in Laconia. Did you know that many hotels within the castle walls (the lower town of Monemvasia) are available for reservations? The hotels will porter your luggage. Otherwise you could be walking around aimlessly without any assistance. The rooms are overpriced for the privilege of being in the castle. We chose that the seaside town (Laconia) across from the "rock" and stayed two nights at the Petrino Guesthouse which was built as a traditional stone building. This is the new city which offers all tourist facilities by the seaside. The guesthouses were basic, clean, and inexpensive and owned by a son and mother. The contact number is 011302732061136.

How do we access Monemvasia from the seaside town of Laconia? No cars are allowed throughout Monemvasia. Supplies are brought in from the causeway each day by donkeys. Originally, the Laconians discovered this remote area by sea. Either park on the road leading to the Castle's Bridge or walk the 100 meters to the bridge and then the remaining meters to the entrance.

Now that you know about Monemvasia, how do we travel to it? Here are several ways by land and by sea. We can discover it by sea, automobile, or bus. We discovered Laconia by automobile. Look at the other researched modes of transportation to Monemvasia. One of them will suit you. We drove the mountain route and the scenic trip on the return.

Did you know that wineries became popular and in recent history, the wine tradition of Monemvasia has a winery situated in the Zarakas region? This vineyard is in the vicinity of KamboKambo and is available for viewing and tasting until the end of August. Therefore, before returning to your departure city or village, stop by at the winery for a tour and tasting.

Access by ship includes from Piraeus or from Kythira and Kasteli, by the flying dolphin or by a private yacht. Githio is in the south, Patra in the northwest and Piraeus (Athens) are main ports of arrival for a trip to Peloponnese and Monemvasia, between April, May and September ferries to and from the few islands surrounding this region can be most helpful if you are visiting several places.

Access by land is from the Sparta-Molaoi road to the south-east or by the coastline. Monemvasia is four hours drive from Athens and ninety-five kilometers from Sparta. It is ninety minutes from Tyro and Mani, eighty minutes from Mystras, and it is 93 km from Sparta. Allow 2.5 hours from the Peloponnesse and four hours from Athens. It is about 285 km (4.5 to 5 hours) from Athens. Choose the scenic or mountainous trip. We chose scenic outbound the mountainous trip on the return trip.

If you take a bus from Athens Airport you can take the Express bus line X93 to the KTEL terminal on Kifissou (line runs 24hrs, with buses every 20-30 minutes). The Bus terminal is at Leoforos Kifissou 100, tel. 011302105246805. One direct bus is at 05:15. There will be a bus change at either Sparta or Molai at 07:15, 14:15, 17:15. On the return, there are three direct buses at 06:00, 10:00; 17:15 from the KTEL Lakonias station. The journey takes about 4.5 hours. There are more buses via Sparta or Molai.

Arrival by air would be from the Kalamata airport (KLX) which is about 130 kilometres from Monemvasia.

We enjoyed this tour because of the varied terrain between the upper and lower towns. The history of Monemvasia was quite worthy of note. There was ample time to see Agia Sophia, the upper and lower towns. Now, you will share your experience. Whether you travel in April when the rock exposes its poppies and daisies, during the summer beach months, or in October for temperate weather, you will be happy that you visited Monemvasia. It attracts thousands of visitors yearly so reserve ahead and enjoy your stay.

by Roberta Mark Engel

I Wish

by Ruth Aroni

I wish trees could tell their stories, what they saw growing up.
I wish I could see angels and heavenly beings.
I wish everyone would learn to laugh and not take life so seriously.
I wish everyone had at least one wish fulfilled every day.
I wish there were no more wars and we could learn to live in peace.
I wish I could hear the astral sounds and the music of the spheres.
I wish I could give joy to those who have none,
hope to those who have none,
and love to those who have none...

From The Oracle of Delphi to the Monasteries of Meteora

Have you ever been to Delphi or Meteora? You are in for a special tour this morning. We will take the Greek National Highway and head north from Athens. Enjoy the drive!

On our way to Delphi, we will see farmland consisting of cotton, tomato and watermelon fields. Approximately 45 minutes later, we will make a quick stop to see the water reservoir of Athens. Then, we will continue traveling through a Livadi (valley) which is surrounded on both sides by mountains. Then, we will stop at Kyra Springs to have a cold drink at a café during the summer months.

Next, we will then travel towards the eleventh century monastery called Osios Lukas. Prior to reaching this monastery, we see a monument which was dedicated to the Greek resistance movement during World War II. We continue our tour by traveling through small villages where Osios Lukas was born and raised. This eleventh century monastery is the vantage point where we can see the top of olive trees surrounded by mountains. It offers quite breathtaking views in the springtime. Did you know that Osios Lukas monastery is a mirror image of the monastery of Agia Sophia in Istanbul?

Let us continue our journey towards Delphi and travel through the town of Arachova which is a popular ski resort in the winter. Fifteen minutes later, we hear the famous Oracle of Delphi. It was the means through which worshipers could hear the words of the god Apollo, spoken through a priestess, or Pythia over the age of 50. Questioners paid a levy called a pelanos and sacrificed an animal on the altar. The questions were then put to the Pythia by a male priest and she would answer in a trance (unfortunately, the answers were often ambiguous), perhaps induced by vapors from a crack in the ground under her feet.

In addition, according to the legend, when Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the world, their paths crossed in the sky above Delphi, establishing the site as the center of the earth. Renowned as a dwelling place of Apollo, from the end of the 8th century BC, individuals from all over the ancient world visited Delphi to consult the god on what course of action to take, both in public and private life. Did you know that the oracle was abolished in 393 with the Christianization of the Byzantine Empire under Theodosius?

We now see the Tholo monument, the gymnasium and the Castalian springs. We also will see the main archaeological site including the treasury, the Sanctuary of Apollo, the ancient theatre and stadium. The museum is next and then a break for lunch at a local Greek taverna which offers a terrific view of an olive grove.

With the political rise of Delphi in the 6th century BC and the reorganization of the Pythian Games, Delphi entered a golden age which lasted until the Romans came in 191 BC. King Croesus of Lydia came to ask if he should make war against Cyrus the Great of Persia and was told that if he crossed a river, then he would destroy a great empire. In marching on Cyrus, his troops crossed the River Halys and he unfortunately, destroyed his own empire.

The Temple of Apollo path was lined with 3, 000 statues and treasures, built by city-states, to house their people’s offerings. The Sanctuary of Apollo is also known as the Sacred Precinct, this is the heart of the complex that also included a stadium and a sacred spring. It is entered through an angora from which the Sacred Way winds through the ruins of memorials and treasuries and led to the Temple of Apollo.

The Temple of Apollo has stood on this site since the 6th century BC, but the remains visible today date from the 4th century BC. Some reconstruction work has been done since French archaeologists uncovered the foundations in 1892, to give an impression of its original grandeur.

The site and Museum are open from April-October from7:30pm Mon-Fri 8:30am-3pm Saturday and Sunday. The phone number is 026582312.

Next, we drive through the mountains and the Thessaliko Valley. How amazing to see the tomato and watermelon fields. After a wonderful nights sleep, we will see six phenomenal monasteries, which were built on top of gigantic rocks in the 14th century. It was used as a religious retreat when, in 985, a hermit named Barnabas occupied a cave here. It is assumed that the first hermits reached the tops of these vertical rock faces, and likely that they hammered pegs into tiny gaps in the rock and hauled building materials to the thousand pinnacles. In the 1920’s, stairs were carved to make the remaining six monasteries more accessible, and today a religious revival has seen the return of many monks and nuns.

In 1336, Athanasos, a monk from Mount Athos founded the monastery of Megalo Meteoro is also known as the Great Meteoran is the highest monastery to be founded. Athana’sios first lived here on one of these thousand pinnacles. Twenty-three monasteries followed, though due largely to their precarious location, many had fallen into ruin by the end of the 18th century. The shrine of Agia Triada stands opposite a well. Agiou Nikolaou is one of Meteora’s soaring monasteries. Rousanou is perched precariously on the very tip of a narrow spire of rock and is he most spectacular of monasteries. Did you know that the church of the Metamorfosis is renounced for its frescoes painted in 1560? Varlam was founded in 1518 after the hermit lived here. It is known for its frescoes. Katholikon is dedicated to Agioi Pantes (all saints); the church is adorned with frescoes. The refractory contains a small icon museum and the Ascent Tower is where goods and people were wrinched up by a windlass mechanism made in 1536.

Megalo Meteora is open on Monday, Wednesday-Sunday. Rousanou is open daily. Agia Triada is open daily. Agios Stefanos is open Tuesday-Sunday. Varlaam is open Monday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Agiou Nikolaou is open April-October daily.
All monasteries are shut from 1-3pm. The phone number is 043222109

We will return to Athens after you have enjoyed lunch along the way. What did you think of Delphi and Meteora? Did you hear the oracle of Delphi? Did you explore Meteora? I am sure that your experience was quite special. We will end our tour in Athens after taking many pictures while experiencing the sites.

by Roberta Mark Engel